Wild, wonderful Alaska
Glaciers thundering into the sea, humpbacks breaching off the bow and grizzlies fishing the rivers: Alaska is the trip people tell me they'll never forget.
The last frontier, best seen by sea and land
Most visitors see Alaska by cruise ship along the Inside Passage, a sheltered route of forested islands and fjords between Vancouver or Seattle and the ports of Ketchikan, Juneau and Skagway. Many itineraries include a day of scenic cruising in Glacier Bay National Park or past the Hubbard Glacier, where the ship pauses so you can watch the ice calve.
To see the interior, add a cruisetour: a few days on land by glass-domed railcar and motorcoach to Denali National Park, home to North America's tallest peak, Denali, along with moose, caribou and bears. Princess and Holland America have their own lodges near the park, which makes the land portion wonderfully seamless.
The season is short: May through September. June and July bring the longest days and warmest weather; May and September can be quieter and better value. Pack layers and a rain jacket, and book early, because balcony cabins and the best land tours sell out well in advance.
Alaska at a glance
Things to do, places to go, things to see
Not an exhaustive list, just the experiences my travelers come home talking about.
Things to do
- Go whale watchingHumpbacks, orcas and sea lions are regular sights in the waters around Juneau.
- Land on a glacierA helicopter or floatplane flight to an icefield, sometimes with a dog-sled ride on top.
- Ride the White Pass railwaySkagway's narrow-gauge train climbs the gold-rush trail to the Canadian border.
- Watch bears fish for salmonSmall-group excursions near Ketchikan and Juneau in late summer.
- Take the train to DenaliGlass-domed railcars with outdoor viewing platforms, through some of the world's wildest country.
Places to go
- JuneauAlaska's capital, reachable only by sea or air, gateway to the Mendenhall Glacier.
- KetchikanTotem poles, Creek Street and the misty fjords of Misty Fjords National Monument.
- SkagwayA preserved gold-rush boomtown with boardwalks and saloons.
- Denali National ParkSix million acres of wilderness with wildlife around every bend.
- Seward & Kenai FjordsTidewater glaciers, puffins and sea otters on a day cruise.
Things to see
- Glacier BayA UNESCO World Heritage Site where park rangers come aboard to narrate.
- Hubbard GlacierAlaska's largest tidewater glacier, more than six miles wide at its face.
- Mendenhall GlacierAn easy trip from Juneau, with a waterfall and a visitor center.
- Denali on a clear dayThe mountain makes its own weather, so seeing the summit is a real treat.
- The northern lightsPossible in late August and September, especially inland.
A taste of Alaska
Dishes to order
- Wild salmonKing, sockeye or coho, grilled over alder wood. It's nothing like what you get at home.
- Alaskan king crabSweet, enormous legs with drawn butter at a Juneau crab shack.
- Halibut & chipsThe perfect lunch between excursions.
- Reindeer sausageAn Alaskan breakfast staple. Try it once!
Where to eat
- Waterfront crab shacksCasual, local and the best way to eat the day's catch.
- Salmon bakesOutdoor, all-you-can-eat salmon cooked over an open fire.
- Wilderness lodgesHearty, farm-to-table meals near Denali after a day of wildlife spotting.
What to drink
- Local craft beerAlaskan Brewing Co. in Juneau and small breweries in every port.
- Glacier-ice cocktailsBartenders chill drinks with ice harvested from the bay.
- Spruce-tip teaA taste of the forest, rich in vitamin C.
Inside Passage & Denali
Glacier Bay and the Inside Passage by ship, then glass-domed rail to Denali National Park. See how the trip could flow, day by day, with advice on when to go.
Let's plan your Alaska getaway
Alaska books up early, especially balcony cabins and Denali lodges, so it's never too soon to start. Tell me when you'd like to travel and I'll come back with options and current pricing.
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